This turns into a MATH HEAVY article.
(About halfway down).
Switching from a 34 year old, 100% reliable, 4 x 32 Tasco, with a 30 30 reticle is something I never wanted to do.
But now I’m a little old man, with tired old eyes, who needs glasses to see clearly and drive safely, and a second pair for reading.
So, 4 x mag is not powerful enough for me to aim accurately enough to drop a bunny at 50 m with a shot ‘just’ behind the eye.
Incidentally, I don’t wear glasses when shooting.
Focusing on the cross hairs using the fast focus is all I need to do.
Only the cost of good simple glass has SOARED and a plain compact Tac-adjust 10 x scope is out of my reach. Which has meant I’ve had to go all high tech, low price, i.e. a UTG Bug Buster 3-12 x 32 Side Focus Non Illuminated Mil-Dot Scope.
What I’m NOT happy about is the more moving parts there are increases the chances of something going wrong. So I’ve got fast focus, magnification, parallax (focus), elevation and windage. FIVE adjustments.
Anyway, all the ex-spurts out in blog world have probably started rolling on the floor laughing because to them it’s a cheap sub $100 ‘toy’. Well it may be cheap, but the glass is lovely and clear and it certainly feels robust.
Anyway, y’all know the type of ex-spurt I’m talking about..
The best of everything, usually on a credit card, in an attempt to look rich, cool, and knowledgeable. They hoping to hell that y’all be so impressed you won’t dare pass judgement on their poor weapons handling and shooting skills.
So, I’ve got a baby Mildot scope, with an ‘American Leapers’ manual, but made in China. (Which will probably trigger yet another Twitter storm from POTUS!)
There is another thing on the scope and I don’t really know how to take it.
1 click is 1/3″ at 100 yards.
AND PHUT! My brain cell just blew!
As I’ve suddenly realised I’m going to have to speak “math”
I can think in Mils and metric but don’t like imperial units when thinking MILDOT. See my post Mildot Maths for the why.
Incidentally, did you know there are Russian Mils and US Mils?
In real life ‘science’ there are 6.283 radians in a circle (aka 2π).
(How geeky of me to know that).
Mils in shooting stands for Milli (1000ths) of Radians so you need to multiply that 6.283 x 1000. AND there’s the problem which encompasses basic math, different countries, and the Mildot system.
A circle is 360 degrees or 6282 mRadians and each mRad (Mil) is 0.573 degrees.
Which doesn’t make life easy for people with limited math skills (like me).
Anyway, the US military thought ‘sod that’ and their compasses use 6400 mils to 360 degrees thus their mRad (Mil) is 0.05625 degrees.
So how does that make life better?
Meanwhile the Russians, who are way better in simplifying things, use 6000 mils to 360 degrees. So their mRad is 0.06 degrees.
Still Tiny but MUCH easier to do math with.
Take a mil reading when ranging using Mildot from the two opposites in the world, and you’ll end up with two different answers.
US ranging on a 50 cm target (shoulder to shoulder) reading 1 mil = 500 meters
RU ranging on a 50 cm target (shoulder to shoulder) reading 1 mil = 468 meters.
A minor difference? After all, what’s 32 m between best (not) friends ?
In real life, at those ranges, it’s a 50 cm (18″) drop with a 7.62 x 39 aka a low belly shot.
So, back to that 1/3″ @ 100 yards.
Or, 8.5 mm at 91.4 meters.
Or, 9 mm (as near as damn it) at 100 meters.
I’ve got a little range at home, just a tad short of 25 meters.
So when it comes to zeroing my scope, it’s REALLY nasty math time.
The 1/3″ click at 100 yards becomes 8.47 mm at 91.4 m and 9.26 mm at 100 m
OR, 2.31 mm per click at 25 m, just over 4 clicks to the cm. Easy-peasy right!
No, not really!
A ‘get you close’ sight card for 1/3″@100 yd.
Why stop at 300 m? With a 7.62 x 39,
Would anyone want to shoot further?
So, basic (get you on paper at longer ranges) POI at 25 meters for:-
My PCP I use for pest controller out to 50 meters, and
A 7.62 x 39 ‘fun machine’ out to 300 meters.
“PCP” PLUS 14.4 cm for a zero at 50 meters
“FUN” PLUS 5.9 cm for a zero at 300 meters
Lets do the 7.62 mm using US Mildot
At 300 m 3.3 mils compensation 16.6 cm
In Russian it’s just a tad over 3 mils.
OK, we’re only talking an inch but hey, there is a difference.
Range chart with elevation and windage.
What else should I include?
Windage dope for wind from various angles.
It’s the same anywhere in the world (thankfully)
15 degrees 1/4 value
30 degrees 1/2 value
45 degrees 3/4 value
60 degrees 9/10 value
90 degrees Full value
Angle shooting aka slope dope.
Once again, it’s the same anywhere in the world
It works out the actual range against what you are seeing.
( Weapon points straight up or down ) the range is zero
( At 60 deg ) the range is Visual times 0.5
( At 45 deg ) the range is Visual times 0.7
( At 30 deg ) the range is Visual times 0.87
( When Level ) What you see is what you shoot.
Leading a target.
There are so many ways of doing this but I stumbled on a simple formula.
Provided you practice a LOT!
It goes like this:-
Speed of target in MILS/SECOND x time of flight (TOF) in SECONDS = lead in MILS. Then you add / subtract wind correction in MILS.
So, watch your target move through the scope and range ‘him’.
Count how many mils ‘he’ moves in a second.
Now multiply that by the TOF (Time of Flight) for your ammunition at that range. That is your MIL LEAD.
Check the wind correction for that range and WAAS.
WIND ADD correction if moving with wind, and
Whe moving AGAINST the wind, SUBTRACT the wind correction.
That’s it, time for two paracetamol and a huge mug of tea.
(Because my brain cell is well fried)